Après plusieurs hypothèses, toutes aussi inventives que farfelues, nous avons retrouvé la véritable recette de la soie gommée chinoise. Et pour toutes celles, qui ne sont pas encore venu voir chez Filambule, la collection en soie gommée des Racines du Ciel, voilà une petite description de cette matière très étonnante :
La soie a un touché semble à du papier laqué avec une face noir glacée et l’autre couleur terre grâce à l’action du Gambier, plante tinctoriale que l’on trouve dans le sud de la Chine.
Cette teinture naturelle, totalement écologique, se prépare en hachant finement la racine de Gambier qui mijote dans de grands bacs en terre jusqu'à l'obtention d'un jus brun orangé. Des lés de soie blanche y sont plongées délicatement puis étendues dans un champ d'herbe pour sécher au grand soleil. Pendant une semaine environ, les tissus sont macérés et aspergés de teinture une trentaine de fois et plongés 3 fois dans le jus de Gambier chaud pour obtenir la densité de la couleur souhaitée. A l'aube naissante, l'étoffe imprégnée de teinture est déployée le long de la rivière et enduite de boue sur une seule face, une seule fois. Après un dernier rinçage à grande eau de la rivière, ce labeur se termine par un séchage avant le lever du soleil. Une fine pellicule anthracite recouvre alors la soie d'un vernis précieux.
De cette étoffe, à la fabrication poétique, les Racines du Ciel, ont crées une ligne de vêtements aux formes sobres et épurées.
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